Bee update 4.15.13 Did you know bees can see UV?

Our bees are building comb like gangbusters! My natural beekeeping mentor hasn’t been able to come out (he lives an hour away), so I guess the queen cage (hanging from a plastic strap attached by a large thumbtack) is just going to stay in there permanently because they are building comb right around it. At least that’s my guess based on how far the bees are clustering – I can’t actually see comb on that side.

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We planted some seeds to hopefully provide some additional food for the bees. The seed packet says they should germinate in 10-15 days, so we’ll see if we can remember to keep them watered. Planting the seeds got us talking about how the bees know where to go on the flower. I found the following two resources really helpful – I think I’m even more interested than Adele!

THIS WEBSITE shows photographs of flowers shot with a UV filter, to approximate how the bees see them, because bees see UV light (but humans don’t).

Some examples:

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Another cool RESOURCE gives some awesome color theory and shows the difference in the spectrum of color that we see versus what the bees see. A GREAT website!!

color range

Follow the rest of our beekeeping adventures HERE.

If this bumbling beekeeper can successfully keep bees, anyone can!

OK, so here’s a bit of our bee adventure.

Let me start by saying that I am so grateful for my amazing husband to not only allow me to take on this crazy adventure but even to help me – especially while he’s so busy studying for his boards in July!

Last Sunday, after church, we drove down to Marbury, which is about an hour south of our house, to pick up the bees. We received two boxes with wooden frames, but the walls of the boxes were screen material. And each box was FILLED with three pounds of buzzing bees. OK, so the boxes were closed, but then there were the hitchhiker bees around the outside; apparently, regular bees are attracted to the scent so they hang out and ride along. We put the two boxes of bees in the back of the Kia and made sure the front windows were down the whole way home. I think Derm Dad was a little bit freaked seeing several bees flying around in the back of the car while we were driving on the freeway. I was imagining a blissful beekeeping scenario where the bees loved me and never stung me, so I was just enjoying the buzzing without any fear or trepidation.

It’s best to install the packages in late afternoon or early evening so they will stay in the hive overnight and hopefully decide to stay in their new home. Thus, we waited a few hours while we got everything ready. The first location I picked was not nearly level enough so we went with my second choice (and I actually think it works better).  I used some cement blocks we had in the basement for a stand. Once we were sure it was level, I remembered I needed to spray the bees with sugar syrup. I ran into the house to find a spray bottle. The first THREE bottles were clogged! Once I finally found the fourth one, I sprayed the bees on all sides through the boxes. I loosened the staple holding down the queen cage with my hive tool and unfortunately it came all the way off. I thought, OK, I’ll just hold this little strap while I shimmy out the syrup can and I won’t drop the queen cage into the thousands of bees inside this box. Well, as I shimmied out the syrup can, of course the bees started flying out and buzzing around my head and in the heat of the moment I dropped the queen cage without realizing it. I had to reach into the bees to grab the cage and release the queen into the hive before I dumped all the bees in there. First of all, there are bees everywhere and also crawling all over the queen cage – so visibility was a major issue. I saw the cork and pulled it out, expecting to see a candy plug behind it. What I didn’t realize was that there are TWO plugs, one with candy and one with nothing. So, I put the cage in there anyway, and proceeded to shake out as many bees as I could into the hive. We closed it up as carefully as possible and tried not to squish any bees.

The next day we tried to open up the hive to remove the queen cage. A bit about that – you are supposed to hang the queen cage from the bars at the top (that the bees will built their comb on) and let the queen crawl out at her leisure. The candy plug gets eaten slowly by the worker bees. The process takes a few days, which gives the bees a chance to get used to the queen’s scent. This was especially important since we had two packages and one queen. But, since there was no candy plug, I wanted the queen cage out of there ASAP, so that they didn’t build their comb around the cage. So, when we tried to open up the cage, the bees freaked out! They came streaming out as soon as we moved the boxes a crack. I used my bee brush to move them over so I could see the boxes and try to get the queen cage (which was hanging by a thumb tack). Well the bees got stuck inside the bristles of the bee brush and they thought I was attacking them so one stung me on my left hand. My dream no-sting experience was shattered on only the second day and I thought, “What was I thinking? Why did I bring this beast into my backyard?” We closed up the hive as quickly as we could, unfortunately squishing a few bees in the process, and came inside to regroup. I called my natural beekeeping mentor Stephano and asked him what we should do. Long story short, he’s going to come over in a few days and inspect the hive to make sure the queen is present and healthy and also to remove the queen cage. Although he did say it wouldn’t hurt anything to leave it in there and that releasing the queen without the candy plug was probably fine too.

I’ve been out there as much as possible to look through the windows. There are already building their fourth piece of comb!!! Three are going perpendicular to the entrance, in the direction of the top bars, but one is a cross comb (maybe to block the bit of light that comes in around the window even when the door is closed?). I really love having two large windows, because sometimes I can’t see what is happening from one side but the visibility is great on the other. In fact, I wouldn’t mind three windows!

So, today is cold and rainy (yesterday was in the 90’s!!!!), but I went out in the rain to check on my bees. Because of the yucky weather, they were tightly clustered in the corner where they are building the comb. Usually during the day, there are bees everywhere (climbing on the windows and the walls and the floor) so thick that it’s hard to see what’s going on. Today, in their cluster, the window was perfectly clear. It was so cool!

If I could make one recommendation to another new beekeeper, it would be to put windows in your hive. It is SO great to be able to open the window and see what’s going on without opening up the hive and disturbing the hive’s temperature and humidity for the bees. We chose plexiglass instead of glass for the windows; in general I avoid plastic for everything, but I read that glass can be too cold and too hot for the bees.

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This pic shows the second entrance, which we added in the bottom of the first beekeeper’s part super. The info we read on the Perone hive suggested adding the second entrance a bit higher so it was less of a journey from the brood area and also to help with ventilation. We added the landing strip without scorching it so it looks a bit out of place. =) The bees don’t seem to mind; both entrances have been quite busy!

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Here’s Adelie-pie hanging out by the viewing window. She is the perfect beekeeper already. She doesn’t rush or fuss near the bees. I don’t think you can see them very well in this picture, but there are bees flying all around the air near her head! I did have to admonish her for spraying the hose too close to the beehive. =(

You can see from this pic that the entrance is right over one of our raised beds. I think  it will be good that we won’t need to mow in front of the hive and the bees will have a bit of their own habitat for walking around near the hive. This particular bed is mostly perennial herbs, so I won’t have to be fussing with it too much.

You can read all about our beekeeping adventures HERE.

Bees installed!

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Two packages of small cell bees installed!

Two package boxes almost completely empty now. I left them near the hive entrance so the remaining bees could walk or fly out at their leisure.

This morning before we left for therapy I quickly peeked at the bees- they were still sleeping and there was a small cluster inside one of the boxes. It’s gone now so either those bees joined the queen in the hive or they ran away. There is a small cluster of bees around the queen cage (inside the hive).

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You can read all about our beekeeping adventures HERE

Perone Hive Progress – using the blowtorch and the Kreg Jig

With our April 7th delivery date for two packages of bees, we have a quickly-approaching deadline for this hive build. Derm Dad got on board with helping me when he realized he could justify a new saw. Well, now he is the proud owner of a new compound miter saw and stand AND a new table saw and stand! Things have been complicated since the plans we are working for are in centimeters and millimeters. Of course there are conversion charts online, but lumber is not exactly measured in inches. It is, but the boards are named for the size before planing.Things have been further complicated because I REALLY wanted to make this hive to have observation windows (since we homeschool), since we aren’t supposed to be breaking in to the bees’ space to spy on them. Well, the plans don’t exactly account for that so we are making this up as we go along.

After three trips to two different lumberyards, here is our updated lumber list (using American names and sizes).

Updated (semi) Americanized Lumber List

  • 3 – 3/4″ dowels 22 3/4″ long for support bars inside the bees space
  •  36 – 9mm tabs for spacers to help build the first comb grid space
  • 34 – 11 m tabs for spacers to help build the second and third comb grid space
  • 24 – 22.5″ long 1″x4″ boards and 2 –   24″ long 1″ x 4″ boards .
    From the 22.5″ boards, rip 53 – 24mm wide bars for the comb grids (4 of these will serve as part of the frames for two of the comb grids – SCORCHED, 17 go in the first comb grid, 16 each in the other two comb grids)
    From the 24″ boards 4 – 24mm wide bars for the other part of the comb grid frames – SCORCHED
  • 2 – 22.5″ long 1″x2″ boards and 2- 24″ long 1″x2″ boards for the frame of the first comb grid (right above the bees space) – SCORCHED
  • 4 – 21 3/4″ long triangle trim pieces for corner triangles
  • 6 – 1″x4″ boards 22.5″ and 6 – 1 x 4″ boards 24″  long for beekeeper supers – SCORCHED
  • 6 – 1″ x 8″ boards 22.5″ long for sides of  bee’s space – SCORCHED
  • 4 – 21 3/4″ long and 4 – 17″ long 1″x4″ boards for two plexiglass viewing frames – SCORCHED
  • Two plexiglass sheets (we used 0.093″ Lexan Polycarbonate sheets which seems like it is very good quality) 21″ x 21 3/4″(no bigger than this size, can make a little smaller to make sure it fits within the frame) for the viewing window and silicone adhesive
  • 3 – 24″ long 1″x8″ boards and 1-24″ long 1″x4″ board for the bees floor (this provides an extra 2″ landing platform for the entrance/exit) – SCORCHED
  • boards for gabled roof – SCORCHED

In order to protect the boards, we are scorching the outside of the wood that is exposed to the elements.  The lumber that is scorched is annotated in the lumber list.  Unfortunately, scorching does cause the board to bow such that the scorched surface is convex. Not sure if we recommend this method for weatherproofing or not (because of the bowing of the wood).

After scorching the necessary wood, the next step was to make the floor.  I Kreg jigged 3 – 24″ long 1″x8″ boards and 1-24″ long 1″x4″ board such that I had a 24″ x 26″ floor with one side scorched (plus edges scorched too).  Then, I made the sides of the bees space using 6 – 22.5″ long 1″ x 8″ boards.  I picked one of these boards to make the bees entrance.  Using my jig saw, I cut a 9 mm notch at 10 1/4″ from either side with the scorched (outer) side facing me.  Then, taking my chisel (still scorched side facing me) I chiseled the entrance out 9 mm from the edge (the purpose of the jig saw notches was to ensure that the chisel didn’t extend more than 2″ – roughly 5 cm.)  Then I used the chisel and sand paper to make sure the entrance was smooth.  The next step was to create circular notches in the inside of the wood for the three stabilizing dowels.  Using a 3/4″ speed bore, I drilled about 1/4″ deep into each side  with the center of the speed bore 1 1/2″ down from the top and 11 1/4″ from each side.  Be sure not to go all the way through the board.  The next step was to drill the kreg jig holes for all six boards including the part that will connect to the viewing frames.  Then, using three boards for each side (make sure the entrance is on the bottom of one of the sides), kreg jig these together.  The next step was making the viewing frames.  Connect 2 – 21 3/4″ long 1″x4″ (vertical pieces) to 2-17″ long 1″x4″ boards (horizontal pieces) with a kreg jig face joint.  The kreg jig holes will go on the 17″ pieces.  Cut the plexiglass sheets into 21″ x 21 3/4″ rectangles.  I used a standard box cutter to score the sheets rather than the plastic scoring tool which I could not get to work.  Peel off the protective covering and silicone glue the plexiglass to the inside of the viewing frame.  The plexiglass has to cure for 12 hours.  In the meantime, I got started on the bee keepers space and the comb grids.   For the beekeepers boxes, simply Kreg jig 2 – 24″ long 1″x4″ boards to 2 – 22.5″ long 1″x4″ boards for each box (total of three boxes.)  Next was the first comb grid.  Because the bees space is supposed to be 22.5″ x 22.5″ (approximately 57 cm x 57 cm), I needed to add a little height (the sides with the 3-1″x8″ boards made a height of 21 3/4″).  To make up for the extra 3/4″ of height, I used 1″x2″ boards (the 1 in the 1″x2″ is really 3/4″ and the 2 is really 1 1/2″)  for the frame of the first comb space.  With the depth of the comb pieces being 3/4″, that left exactly 3/4″ remaining to complete the height of the bees space (it’s not that often things work out so nicely).  I kreg jigged 2-24″ long 1″x2″ boards to 2-22.5″ long 1″x4″ boards.  Then I had to rip 17 -22.5″ long 24 mm wide strips from 1″x4″ pieces.  Except for the bees entrance, the comb grid is the only other time I needed to use metric.  Fortunately my new table saw has a metric and english measuring guide.  I placed one kreg jig hole at the end of the each strip on the wide (24 mm) face.  Then I placed them in the 1″x2″ frame placing a couple of  22.5″ long 1″x4″ boards underneath to hold them up (the strips need to be attached at the top of the comb grid to give the bees space that extra 3/4″ of height).  I put the strips down with 9 mm spacers (that I made with my table saw).  Unfortunately, if your spacers are too big by as little as 1/2 mm (which is almost nothing) you wipe out an entire comb space over the span of 17 strips.  I ended up being off by about 6-8 mm total so the spaces on the very ends were only 5-6 mm wide compared to the recommended 9 mm wide.  But the rest of them were 9 mm wide as they are supposed to be.  Building the other two comb grids is the same process as the first only only  they do not require using 1″x2″ frames.  Instead, you can use the same 24 mm strips that you use for the comb pieces for the frames as well.  The only difference is that the frame pieces are oriented differently than the comb pieces.  For the frame pieces, the 24mm dimension becomes the vertical height and the 3/4″ thickness of the board is the width of the frame piece.  The second and third comb grids only require 16 comb pieces so they are spaced apart only slightly wider at 11 mm.  The next step is assembly of the bees space.  Kreg jig one side to the two viewing frames.  Fasten 2- 21 3/4″ long triangular strips to the corners.  Then, with the solid side lying on the floor, insert the dowels in the three holes.  Place the other solid side on top such that the three dowels insert into the corresponding holes.  Kreg jig the fourth side to the other two viewing frames.  Add the remaining triangular trim pieces to the other two corner.  Kreg jig the entire box to the floor making sure that the bees entrance is on the side with the extending two inch lip.  Place the comb grids on top with the bee keepers boxes in between.  Add the gabled roof.

In case you are interested, here’s a video of the scorching process (a bit of family humor – Adele as the cameraman wipes out but makes a nice recovery):

Here are a few more progress videos:

Making holes for the support bars in the bees’ space:

Using the Kreg Jig to make a beekeeper’s super:

Using the Kreg Jig to make the sides of the bees’ space (internal dimensions 57cm x 57cm):

P.S. We are NOT claiming to be Perone hive experts (or even bee experts), but I couldn’t find anything on the internet (other than the links I already gave in the previous post) on Perone hives in English, so I thought a bit more info might help someone else. If you decide to try this hive, please leave a comment to let us know how it goes!!!

P.P.S. Don’t forget, you can join 13skills.com and commit to learning 13 new skills in 2013

follow our beekeeping saga HERE

I’m a beekeeper! The PermApiculture Way! In a Perone hive

What’s PermApiculture, you ask? Well, its like Permaculture, which is permanent agriculture, for beekeeping (apiculture). So, PermApiculture is a chemical-free, frame-free, foundation-free method that focuses on making things healthy for the bees, rather than interfering for the comfort of the beekeeper. Most notably, PermApiculture uses a super-hive to allow the bees to develop a large, and thus, super-healthy hive, which naturally protects the hive from pests such as varroa mite and hive beetles. In addition to a larger-than-normal size of the hive box, PermApiculture specifies a particular space (9mm) between the bars in the comb grid, which correlates to a hotter temperature in the hive, which is hotter than the varroa can tolerate. And finally, PermApiculture hive design creates a bees’ space and a beekeeper’s space, which gives the bees the privacy to raise brood without being disturbed by constant opening of the hive – you harvest honey by removing the smaller combs in the upper beekeeper’s space, which does not disturb the bees. This results is very friendly bees! In fact, most beekeepers using this method have no need for smokers or protective clothing when harvesting honey or otherwise working the hive!!!

The name of the hive design is Perone MK-2, with plans available HERE.

Hive-making will commence this weekend, Lord-willing. In case you are interested in making your own hive, here’s my lumber list for one Perone hive. I plan to double the list to make two hives and sell one. Supposedly, one Perone hive is the equivalent of about four Langstroth hives (in number of bees and also harvestable honey). More info on this type of hive and beekeeping practice can be found HERE.

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Lumber List

  • 5 or 6 small boards 57cm long (skinny like dowels, but square) to add support in the bees brood comb (or can use sticks/branches if not going to move hive)
  • 17 – 9mm bars for spacers (and some lumber approx 57cm x 57cm) for a comb grid guide piece
  • 49 – 24mmx24mm bars 57cm long for making comb grid
  • 12 – 24mmx24mm bars 59.5cm long (or 55cm plus the thickness of wood) for 3 comb grid boxes
  • 4 – 57cm long square bars for corner triangles
  • 12 – 1″x4″ boards 59.5cm long for beekeeper supers
  • 20 – 1″x4″ boards 59.5 cm long
    OR 4 – 59.5cm x 59.5cm boards for bee’s space box
    as long as internal measurements are exactly 57cm x 57cm x 57cm
  • 5 – 1″x4″ boards and
    1 – 1″x6″ board for the floor
    OR any size boards to cover the floor and leave a lip under the entrance
  • boards for gabled roof
  • 57cm x 57cm board for inner cover (inside roof)

My bees (2 packages) arrive in a few weeks – we are so excited!!!

 

You can read all about our beekeeping adventures HERE.